Thursday, September 2nd, 2010

The Care and Feeding of Amaryllis Bulbs

December 21, 2009 by Doug  
Filed under Bulbs








The showy amaryllis bulb plant was named after a shepherdess – who for some exotic reason was often referred to by the Romantic poets. Milton’s poem Lycidas. “Were it not better done as other use, To sport with Amaryllis in the shade, Or with the tangles of Neara’s hair?” is a perfect example of this reference. Indeed, sporting with Amaryllis in the shade sounds a whole bunch better than working or herding sheep. And indeed, this flower is quite showy and worth a bit of sport to keep it growing and healthy. Luckily, this South African native isn’t all that difficult to grow and convince to repeat bloom.

It grows naturally on the coastal hills and stream banks on the southwestern seabord of Cape Province, South Africa and this is our first clue on amaryllis care. While, in nature it normally thrives in areas where have the taller plants have been destroyed by fire, this simply tells us that it likes full sunlight to grow properly. Growing on stream banks also tells us that this is not a dry-land plant but enjoys a good drink and fertile soil. In the wild, as in your kitchen, the flower stalk will appear first followed by leaves only once the blooming period is done. I note the flowers are wonderful for cutting and often have a slight fragrance to them.

This is a perfect plant for pot culture because the fleshy roots resent being disturbed when the plant is actively growing. So, now that you have your amaryllis bulb newly purchased and it is sending flower stalks skyhigh take the time to enjoy those flowers. They are relatively short lived and the single most important thing you can do to keep them flowering for a long time is to keep the plant warm. This is not a plant for the cool windowsill or back bedroom. The warmer the better and this temperature applies to the entire growing period; remember, this is a South African native.

Once the flowers fade, the amaryllis flower stalks can be cut right down to the bulb. Soon after this fading begins (or even while the blooms are on the plant) thin, strap-like leaves will begin to be produced by the bulb. Your job, if you want to bloom the bulb again, is to grow these leaves as best you can. Here’s the tricks. Full sunlight is necessary, as much as you can give this southern native. Feed it with a balanced houseplant food once a month. This is really important because if you do not feed it or give it enough sunlight, the bulb will not get strong enough to produce flowers for next season. At some point, the bulb will tell you itself, it will have enough sunshine and food produced and the leaves will begin to fade and go yellow. At this point, stop watering.

Now, you’ve been watering the bulb and while not keeping it swamp-like, you’ve kept the soil dampish so the bulb will not be water-starved. But now, when those leaves fade, you hold the water and allow the soil to dry right out – bone dry. You will not water again until the bulb starts to throw a new flower stalk next fall. I note that the length of time the leaves will grow and the length of time of dormancy are controlled by how you grow the plant. Cooler temperatures will lengthen the growing cycle as will reduced sunlight.

Remember that the bulb does not like to be disturbed and flowers best when pot-bound so transplanting into new pots and dividing off bulb offsets is only done every few years when the bulb starts to grow beyond the size of the pot. This is done during the dormant season if and when you have to do it. You can expect multiple shoots and flowers to be produced from mature bulbs (the ones you purchase in stores are never mature) so you don’t want to disturb the bulb until you have no other choice.

There are few pests that bother this plant but you may see some aphids, whitefly or spider mites doing their best to colonize the leaves. If you put the pot outside for the summer, be aware that slugs consider them a delicacy and will quite quickly (overnight!) chomp a plant to the ground. Other than that, most other problems are caused by poor watering habits (usually too much water) or too dry air (next to air registers). Even I can grow this plant indoors and that is saying quite a bit.

So, I’m not sure I’m up to sporting with poets and their Amaryllis but I can tell you I’m delighted to watch my Amaryllis bulb bloom in sunny windowsills.







Comments

4 Responses to “The Care and Feeding of Amaryllis Bulbs”
  1. helen Yoest says:

    Merry Christmas Doug! I have enjoyed your post this past year and look forwarding to reading more in 2010. H

  2. Doug says:

    @Helen – thanks for that thought – it’s a fun world we live in for sure.

  3. Heather Chatten says:

    I read with interest the dtails of growing the amarilyis Bulbs to full bloom. My recently bloomed and is in its last stae of this and the flowers are starting to fade now. Thanks for the information about how to proceed from this point on. It will be followed. I would love to send you a photo of the bloom. My husband took a wonderful shot of the blossoming 4 flower head.

  4. Kate Rowland says:

    I have a huge Hippeastrum bulb that I have never let go dormant, it never stops leafing and flowering! It often produces more than one flower head at a time, and the record successive flowering in one year is 6 full heads, one straight after the other. All have 5 trumpets on and all are full height.
    I rescued a friend’s 4 tiny bulbs at his flat and now one scarlet variety has produces 7 flower trumpets on one stem. I wondered if you know if this is a record? I have only ever seen 5 full size flowers on one stem.
    Lovely to see all the pics of beautiful ‘Triffids’ all trumpeting to the sun.
    Love’n'luck
    Kate
    PS. My trick is to water them with old water from my fishtank, great liquid feed!

Speak Your Mind

Tell us what you're thinking...
and oh, if you want a pic to show with your comment, go get a gravatar!